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The growing popularity of electric mountain bikes (e-MTBs) has brought a noticeable change to the trails. More people are embracing this technology, and consequently, nearly every major mountain bike manufacturer now offers at least one electric model. This trend is making mountain biking more accessible to a diverse group of riders, lowering the barriers to entry and enabling individuals with varying fitness levels and abilities to enjoy singletrack adventures.
For newcomers to mountain biking, e-MTBs serve as an ideal gateway. Many are diving straight into the sport by purchasing their first bike, which happens to be an e-MTB. Meanwhile, seasoned riders are expanding their collections by adding an electric mountain bike to their stable. They're inspired by seeing these bikes on trails, hearing positive feedback from friends, or simply wanting to squeeze in a few extra laps.
It’s quite probable that your e-MTB is your most expensive bike yet. The advanced technology behind the motor, battery, and controller significantly boosts the price. Regardless of whether this is your first or tenth bike, maintaining it in optimal condition is crucial. Regular upkeep, much of which you can manage at home, is necessary to ensure longevity.
The bottom line is that you’ve likely invested a significant amount of money in this bike, and it’s essential to take steps to maximize its lifespan. Whether you’re buying a new mountain bike, gravel bike, or e-MTB, there are a few key steps to follow before hitting the trails. Your approach will differ depending on whether you buy from a local bike shop or directly from the manufacturer.
Purchasing directly from the manufacturer might save you money compared to buying from a bike shop. However, spending a bit extra at a shop provides peace of mind, knowing that the bike has been professionally assembled and that any future issues can be addressed easily.
If you opt for direct purchase, you’ll likely receive a large, heavy box. Start documenting the delivery process by taking pictures of the box, especially if it shows signs of damage. Inspect each part carefully as you unbox it, capturing images of any visible damage. While manufacturers generally package bikes well, accidents can happen during transit, so vigilance is key.
When assembling your e-MTB, photograph the bike’s identification and serial numbers. Depending on their location, it might be easier to capture these details before fully assembling the bike. These photos will be invaluable later when registering your bike with the manufacturer to ensure warranty coverage. Modern bikes require every bolt to be torqued to specification; failure to do so can lead to premature wear, damage, and an unsafe bike. Most manufacturers include an easy-to-use torque wrench with the necessary tools for assembly and maintenance. Always double-check the torque specifications, as they are usually marked near or on the bolts themselves. Don’t assume that bolts are pre-torqued from the factory.
While you’re handling paperwork and documentation, it’s also a great time to consider insurance for your new e-MTB. Velosurance can bridge the gap left by the manufacturer’s warranty, which typically only covers "manufacturer defects." For instance, if you crash and damage your brand-new carbon fiber frame, the manufacturer might reject your claim since the damage isn’t classified as a defect. Velosurance not only covers crashes but also offers optional medical payments coverage to assist with injury-related expenses. It also protects against theft, travel damage, and gear loss. Additionally, they allow you to choose your preferred bike shop for repairs.
Regular washing of your e-MTB is one of the most critical aspects of maintenance. Dirt and dust can infiltrate every part of your bike, affecting moving components like the drivetrain, suspension linkages, and hydraulic systems. The type of cleaning you perform depends on the trail conditions and the level of dirt accumulation. A dirty bike is problematic, but excessive water can also harm your e-MTB.
During summertime, riding usually results in a dusty bike. In such cases, a microfiber cloth and waterless bike wash are effective. The waterless wash helps remove dust without scratching the frame or components. Simply spray it on and wipe it away, ensuring you don’t push dust into sensitive areas like bearings and seals. Areas like the suspension stanchions, dropper seatpost stanchion, headset bearing, bottom bracket, and suspension linkage bearings should be kept dust-free.
Be cautious with sprays, as they can damage brake pads or rotors. While many companies produce bike-safe washes, it’s better to err on the side of caution. Double-check the instructions or cover your brakes. An alternative is to spray the wash onto a rag rather than the bike directly. Wiping down a dusty bike is a quick and efficient method of cleaning without excessive water. However, your drivetrain might require a traditional wash with water.
If you’ve been riding on wetter trails and your bike has more than just dust, it’s time to use a hose and a cleaning kit from your local bike shop. Similar to wiping down your bike, focus on critical areas like bearings, dust seals, and suspension stanchions. When using water, set the nozzle to a gentle setting like "shower" and stand back slightly. Avoid spraying dust seals and bearings directly with water. With a gentle nozzle and some distance, this shouldn’t be an issue. If the water jet is too strong, it can bypass seals and enter your suspension and bearings, pushing dirt further into these components.
Dirt and dust buildup are major contributors to drivetrain damage. Mixed with chain lube, they create a gritty mess that erodes gears and chains. Water alone cannot remove this grime, so you’ll need to degrease the drivetrain. Cover your brakes, as degreaser is not friendly to them.
Apply degreaser directly to the drivetrain and scrub thoroughly. Pay close attention to the derailleur and the spaces between the cogs on the cassette, where dirt likes to hide. Use a small brush for these tight spaces. A particularly dirty drivetrain might require removing the chain and even the cassette from the rear wheel for a deep clean, but be sure not to lose the spare link. This isn’t a frequent task and should be treated like "spring cleaning." Remember, a clean chain will get dirty if the cassette is dirty, and vice versa.
Regarding batteries and electric motors, reputable e-bike manufacturers have accounted for these challenges. These bikes are designed to handle various weather conditions, so batteries, charging ports, and motors are equipped with quality gaskets to keep water out. However, similar to bearings and seals, it’s best to avoid spraying these components directly with water.
Never use a pressure washer on your bike. Most bearing and suspension seals, as well as electronic component gaskets, aren’t designed to handle the force of a pressure washer, so you risk water entering moving parts or electronics.
Regular suspension maintenance is essential for your e-MTB. Service intervals are typically measured in hours of riding. Since most mountain bikers track miles instead of hours, various apps can record your rides and provide total ride time. If your bike has an app, it might already track this information.
Servicing suspension isn’t overly complex, and numerous online videos demonstrate the process. However, specific tools, parts, and oils are required. If you lack mechanical skills or space, it’s advisable to let the experts handle it. Contact your local bike shop to schedule an appointment.
Most suspension components have 50-hour and 100-hour service intervals. For instance, both Fox and SRAM recommend 50-hour lower leg servicing on forks to restore low-bump sensitivity, reduce friction, and extend bushing lifespan. Standard servicing includes replacing bath oil, cleaning or replacing seals if needed, and installing new foam rings. For air shocks, servicing the air can includes replacing dust wipers and O-rings. The 100-hour service is more extensive, often involving damper and spring servicing. Most dropper posts have a 400-hour service interval, which for modern dropper posts usually involves replacing a cartridge—a task that takes about 15 minutes with standard tools.
Generally accepted service intervals for forks and shocks are listed below, but for official recommendations, consult your specific equipment’s manufacturer.
**Fork**
| Service | Each Ride | 50 Hours | 100 Hours |
|---------|-----------|----------|-----------|
| Clean and Inspect | ✅ | | |
| Check Sag and Damper Settings | ✅ | | |
| Lower Leg Servicing | | ✅ | |
| Damper and Spring Servicing | | | ✅ |
**Shock**
| Service | Each Ride | 50 Hours | 100 Hours |
|---------|-----------|----------|-----------|
| Clean and Inspect | ✅ | | |
| Check Sag and Damper Settings | ✅ | | |
| Air Sleeve (Can) Servicing | | ✅ | |
| Damper and Air Can (Sleeve) Servicing | | | ✅ |
It’s easy to overlook suspension maintenance because performance degrades gradually, and even the most observant riders may not notice diminished performance until it’s severe. Neglecting maintenance leads to premature wear of certain components and collateral damage to others. While consumable components like dust wipers, seals, and O-rings are inexpensive, active components such as dampers and stanchions are among the priciest on your bike.
Because the added power reduces the physical strain of riding rugged terrain, e-MTB riders tend to shift less, staying in the same gear longer. This accelerates wear on the middle cogs of the cassette. Depending on your bike’s component specs, a replacement cassette might cost anywhere from $150 to $550. Efforts to prolong its life make sense. Besides keeping it clean and lubricated, learning to use gears effectively can significantly extend the cassette’s lifespan and improve your riding efficiency.
The chain is arguably the bike’s hardest-working part, consisting of numerous small components engineered to withstand pedaling forces and shifts. With the added power of an electric motor, these forces are amplified up to four times, explaining why e-MTB chains don’t last as long. Chains stretch with use as pins, rollers, and bushings wear out. As they stretch, shifting becomes imprecise, leading to wear on the cassette, sloppy shifting, and slipping gears. Timely chain replacement can greatly extend the cassette’s life. The general rule is that a cassette should last as long as three chains if replaced at the right intervals. Chain lifespan depends on weather conditions, cleanliness, and power usage. A chain that’s stretched by 0.75% or more should be replaced. A chain wear indicator is an inexpensive tool that measures chain wear accurately.
Just as e-MTBs stress chains and cassettes, they also place additional strain on brakes. Extra acceleration and weight from the motor wear down brake pads inside the caliper, reducing overall stopping power. Regularly check your brake pads monthly, replacing them when they’re substantially worn. While removing the pads, ensure the caliper interior is free of dirt and grime. Replacement timing depends on the manufacturer’s guidelines—Shimano recommends replacing pads when they’re less than 0.9mm thick, while SRAM suggests replacing when the combined thickness of the pad and plate is less than 2.5mm.
If you still experience reduced braking power despite having sufficient pad thickness, you might need to resurface the pads. Trail dirt or road debris can contaminate rotors and pads. Fortunately, you can restore pads to like-new condition using drywall sanding screens, steel wool, and isopropyl alcohol. Remove the pads from the caliper (a great opportunity to clean the caliper), rub them in a figure-eight pattern on the sanding screens, and spray alcohol on the rotors, rubbing them with steel wool. Wipe away steel wool fibers with a microfiber cloth. Reinstall the pads and wheels, then rebed the brakes.
Another maintenance task is checking all frame bearings (if your e-bike is full suspension). While not as frequent as suspension servicing, aim for an annual check depending on your riding frequency. Unless you’re an experienced mechanic, replacing bearings isn’t a DIY job. Specialized tools are needed to remove and press bearings into place. Avoid damaging your frame while attempting to pry out a bearing. Make your frame bearing overhaul a winter project when you’re off the trails, and visit a shop for professional assistance.
This is also an opportune time to evaluate other components. Are your wheels true? Do hub bearings need adjustment? Is your headset bearing noisy? What about the bottom bracket? If the bike is already being serviced, it’s the perfect time to have other components inspected and upgraded.
For e-MTB battery maintenance, cleanliness is key. While dust isn’t a great conductor, accumulated dust between terminals can cause a minor short that damages the battery or, worse, sparks a fire. Before each ride, disconnect the battery, wipe it down to remove dust and dirt, and apply grease to areas where it rubs against the frame to prevent wear. Use a clean brush to break up and dry away dirt and dust if necessary.
If you won’t be riding your e-MTB for a while, avoid leaving the battery fully charged or completely discharged. Aim to keep the charge percentage in the middle range and store the battery at room temperature. Batteries naturally lose charge over time, so occasional charging might be necessary.
Batteries dislike extreme temperatures. To extend their life, store them indoors at room temperature, especially if you’re not riding for a while. In cold weather, charge the battery indoors, transport it in a warm vehicle, and install it immediately before riding. Never charge a cold battery—it risks damage.
The optimal ambient temperature for charging a lithium battery is 41°F to 113°F (+5°C to +45°C). Charging below 32°F (0°C) triggers a chemical reaction called “lithium plating,†which drastically reduces battery life and limits fast charging. In severe cases, lithium plating forms dendrites that penetrate the separator and cause internal shorts, potentially leading to fires.
Finally, stay updated with software updates for your e-bike. These updates often enhance pedal-assist power output or optimize battery usage, extending the battery’s lifespan. A battery that retains 80% or more of its capacity after a full charge cycle is considered healthy by most manufacturers. If your battery can’t sustain this capacity and is still under warranty, it may qualify for replacement.
Despite the added motor and battery, maintaining an e-MTB is largely similar to maintaining any other bike, except for proper battery charging and storage. Keeping your bike clean and well-maintained ensures years of enjoyable rides.